Today is our first full day of Vespa touring in Chianti! Since we had a little bit of time before meeting the others at the corner cafe across from Hotel Vignale, we took some time to explore the immediate area around our own accommodations.
Villa Galenda is actually a small hamlet that dates back to the 19th century. During World War Two it had been reduced to rubble, and remained in that ruined state until the whole hamlet had been purchased by a German, W. Petri. Herr Petri felt since the Germans had destroyed the hamlet, he would now restore it to it's former beauty. He and his family worked at the restoration for years, and have been fabulously successful. His son Tobias, an architect, supervised the restoration of many of the buildings at Villa Galenda, and his work has appeared in noted architectural publications. The Petri family has appointed the homes with all the latest conveniences, but remained true to the traditional look and feel of the period in which they were built. Local stone and other materials was used whenever possible, and the modern designer fixtures give the villas a very sophisticated 'euro' look. They even restored the old chapel, and the upkeep is shared by all the residents of the hamlet. The views overlooking the valley are breathtaking, and I found myself spending many mornings poolside taking in the scenery before we would ride out.
Later we met with the rest of the group at the little cafe in the village of Radda. The cafe was typical of cafes in small Italian towns. It was open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and served the community as just an all-purpose hangout. After enjoying coffee and pastries, we saddled up our Vespas and headed out for the town of Panzano. The ride was a real treat as we meandered along winding Tuscan country roads. We even ran across these llamas relaxing in the middle of a field! We could've approached them, but given the llama's predilection for spitting, we felt discretion was the better part of valor!
After more enjoyable riding, we arrived in the lovely hilltop town of Panzano. In Chianti, most towns are situated on hilltops, and it's not just because the view is so much nicer. From medieval times to the unification of Italy in the mid-19th century, the Italian peninsula was carved up into a patchwork of city-states which were frequently at war with one another.
Chianti had the uncomfortable distinction of being 'no man's land' in a longstanding rivalry between Florence and Siena. Thus the locals found it prudent to build their towns on more defensible high ground, and often fortified the towns as well. The countryside is dotted with towns like this, as well as castles in various states of disrepair, all bearing mute witness to a much more violent time.
But all is peaceful now, and we arrive in Panzano just in time for lunch. Maurizio quickly laid out a scrumptious spread of chicken, salads, cheeses, bread, chianti wine and wild boar sausage. The Tuscan countryside is apparently overrun with these feral pigs which can grow quite large and are a real annoyance to farmers because of their nocturnal forays into the fields where they root for anything edible. 
Fortunately, these rural marauders also happen to be quite tasty, and the population is kept in check by carefully managed hunting. Cinghiale is an ingredient found in many Tuscan entrees. It is much more flavorful than farm-raised pork, but the cuts of meat tend to be tough, so it's best in sausages or slowly cooked dishes.
After lunch, we saddled up again and rode to the town of Castellina. Castellina is a classic example of a Tuscan fortress town, and in many respects, looks little changed from Renaissance times. With the final defeat of the Republic of Siena by Florence in 1555, the town no longer had military value, and much of the walls ended up being dismantled to become foundations for homes (a 'swords-to-plowshares' bit, as it were!). One of the more remarkable examples of surviving military architecture is the Via delle Volte. This covered, tunnel-like structure with it's interspersed towers served as the main defensive bulwark for it's side of the town. Now it's archers' ports merely provide a commanding view of the surrounding countryside, and the galleries off the main tunnel are now wonderful shops offering the best in Tuscan wines, foods and art.
Taking our leave of Castellina, we made our way back to our home base of Radda. This particular evening we were on our own for dinner, so we gravitated to the corner cafe where we started our day. The special of the evening was - wait for it - cinghiale (wild boar) stew, and I had to have some. All I can say is that if you like robust meat dishes, this is 'heaven in a bowl'. The savory chunks of boar meat must have been simmering all day, and was served in a lovely sauce. I found myself attempting to distract my dining companions by pointing and declaring, "I say, look at that interesting thing over there!", so no one would see me licking the bowl clean. Unfortunately, they did not fall for my ruse, but at least there was plenty of bread to wipe up every last delectable dollop!
This evening, more gifts from IbyV: lovely IbyV-logo hats & t-shirts (made in Italy, of course!)
Coming next: Castello di Verrazano, and a 50th birthday for the ages!
